Parts listing:
- waterproof terminal block
- 12 gauge wire, RED
- 12 gauge wire, BLACK
- DPDT 12VDC 20A relay with socket
- 15 amp automotive circuit breaker with protective cover
- ...
Parts listing:
The original tension springs for the headlight door were installed. The lower headlight door lid will need two adjustable bumpers to allow for aligning the headlight door to the grille.
The linear actuator opens/closes the headlight door with ease. The tension springs help with keeping the headlight door in place. There is only one alignment adjuster on the door and its at the top of the headlight door. With the current linear actuator setup, that adjuster doesnt do much. So adjuster bumpers at the lower corners of the headlight door should resolve alignment issues.
Made a mounting bracket from the 3/4" EMT tubing. The piece is 1.55" in length. .92" in diameter. The two holes are .37" and .26". The .37" hole is the lower hole and that attaches to the headlight bucket factory mounting location of the vacuume motor. The .26" hole is where a 3/4" roll pin is pressed through the tube to the linear actuator.
I found, that EMT tubing/pipe is the diameter/size that I am looking for, that fits the end of the linear actuator. I bought 3/4" size EMT pipe.
Today I put together a basic configuration for opening/closing the headlight doors. I used a 1.75" long piece of steel tubing fastened to the bottom of the actuator and that piece was then attached to the same location that the vacuum motor attaches to on the headlight bucket, I even used the same bolt. I attached the steel tube to the actuator using a 1/4" wide by 1" long roll pin. The two holes that need to be drilled into the 1.75" round tube are spaced at .8" at the center of the holes. The .8" distance needs to be shortened by .2", so the distance between is .6" for the next piece so that the head light door completely opens.
I made another fitting for the actuator. The piece is still 1.75" in length, the holes are centered at .70" for this piece. That was a .10" difference and didn't do much to open the headlight door. The next piece will have the holes centered from each other at .65"
Removed the cam, lifters and anything else that was attached to the block. Could not find a part number on the camshaft or lifters. The block is completely empty/bare and ready for cleaning. The oil galley plugs front and rear of block need to be removed, coolant drain plugs on each engine side need to be removed. I sprayed PBlaster on those fittings and will see how they work out tomorrow.
Today the timing cover, timing chain set, pistons, rods and crankshaft were removed. All bearings are standard, the pistons are standard bore. Pistons 4,6,7,8 had broken rings, none of the pistons were broken. The cam and lifters are still installed and will be removed tomorrow(maybe). The timing cover is setup for a mechanical fuel pump. The cam had a fuel pump eccentric installed.