31 March 2017

Took the car for a drive to check the temp gage functionality and to see if the engine is actually overheating.  I drove for about 15 minutes and the entire time the temps on the gages stayed at around 180 to 185 degrees.

The second mechanical temp gage has been temporarily mountedon the driver side fender and it is held in place with magnets.  So far the magnets are keeping the gage in place without issues.

After the drive, I checked the engine oil for water and did not find any.  I did not see any other signs of coolant leakage or engine oil leakage or tranmission oil leakage(except for the tailshaft which I have been monitoring).

I need to check the suspension to make sure things are ok.

I am considering getting a vacuume gage and mount that in the gage cluster location that is in the middle upper of the instrument panel.

30 March 2017 - The Merc

Both mechanical temp gauges read roughly the same temps.  The Auto gage unit is easier to read the gradients while the no name brand is not so easy.  I filled the coolant system and ran the engine for about 20 minutes or so and checked the temp gauges.  The engine does not appear to be overheating running in the garage at 1500 rpms.

Looks like the electrical temp gauge sender was not properly grounded.


I was considering taping the second temp gauge to the hood just for testing purposes.  But I think I will install a gauge panel and install the second temp gauge in that.

So I will have to drain the coolant and route the temp gauge line through the firewall which means cutting a whole big enough for the sending unit to fit through....so might not do that,might just keep it where it is until I'm done checking on the engine temps...


Checked the instrument lighting of the new gauge cluster and it works.

29 March 2017 - The Merc

I installed the Auto gage cluster, and connected the instrument lighting wiring.  I temporarily installed the other mechanical temp gauge in place of the electric water temp sensor location.  I am trying to determine 2 things by doing this install, one, if the engine is actually running hotter or two, if the temperature electric sending unit was not properly grounded.

Tomorrow I should be able to re-fill the coolant system and check the engine temperature with the two mechanical temp gauges.

I had to remove the radio to install the new instrument cluster and decided to leave it out while doing the temperature checks.

I am considering re-wiring the switched power to the volt meter. 

28 March 2017 - The Merc

I purchased an Auto Gage 3 gauge cluster, 2 5/8" gauge size, PN:2395.  The gauge cluster contains a voltmeter, mechanical temp gauge and mechanical oil pressure gauge.  I tested the mechanical temp gauge before installing and it works.  Since the cluster is larger I had to drill new holes to mount the panel.

I also wanted to verify that the mechanical temp gauge that was originally installed was actually good and it is.

I am looking into installing the older mechanical temp gauge in place of the electrical temp gauge, just for testing to see why the electrical gauge reads so differently than the mechanical unit(hopefully its just a bad ground for the sender).

Removing the older gauge cluster took a bit of time, had to mark wires and remove everything as well as drain coolant.

The new gauge cluster instrument lighting uses the cluster panel and the gauges themselves as grounds for the lighting.  So I have to make a new wiring harness for the lighting to take those changes into account.

26 March 2017 - The Merc

Before starting up the car I installed the spill-less funnel to burp the coolant system.

The car started up like it should and turned off like it should, so it looks like the ignition switch was the problem.  While the car was running and then finally warmed up, there was very few bubbles even after the thermostat opened.  What I also noticed was that after the engine was warmed up, when I hit the throttle, a few bubbles would come out of the funnel.  The car did warm up fine and did not overheat at idle.  So I'm not sure what the deal is with the bubbles.  It could be a blown head gasket, so I am looking into that.  I did pull the plugs but they looked ok, no water/coolan.

I also noticed that the temperature gauge was not working after re-installation of the instrument cluster, so I had to remove it and check it out.

While removing the instrument cluster I damaged a wire to the left turn signal indictor on the instrument cluster.  I replaced that wire and made it about a foot longer to make getting the instrument cluster out the next time.  I also did a little troubleshooting to figure out why the temp gauge was not working.  I checked instrument cluster wiring and it was good, checked instrument cluster wiring to sender unit and it was good.  I also checked the sender and it had the correct resistance when hot, warm and cold.  So I put everything back together and the temp gauge now works and so far the other instruments and lights do as well.

While I was waiting for the car to cool off, I replaced the rear brake/turn lights with LED bulbs.  They look ok.  The one I received from WCCC is the brightest so I will be buying 5 more of those.

I also replaced the front interior courtesy lights with white LEDs and they look good.

25 March 2017 - garage

The ignition switch has been replaced and the ignition key switch has been replaced.  The dash panels and instrument cluster have been re-installed.  The battery has been installed.  I also drained 7 quarts coolant from the radiator and put in straight distilled water.

After getting that done I decided to pull the spark plugs to give them a once over.  Well one of the shop lights failed in the garage.  So I will be replacing/repairing that then get back to The Merc.

23 March 2017 - The Merc

I ordered an ignition switch bezel tool from SR.  It has arrived and will make replacing the ignition switch assembly much easier.  Still waiting on a couple other parts From WCCC.  Hopefully this weekend the parts will be on hand so I can get back to driving The Merc.

Scott Drake T-100-YL Ignition Switch Bezel Tool 1967-1968

I was able to remove the ignition switch assembly and install the replacement.  I had to make room / get better access to the ignition switch, so I removed the instrument cluster and front instrument cluster cover as well as the passenger side instrument panel.  While removing the passenger side instrument panel, two metal clips that provide a mounting point on the panel popped out.  After closer inspection, the plastic tabes that hold the clips in place, snapped off.  I used Gorilla glue to glue the metal clips to the panel.  That will have to at least cure overnight before I can install that piece.  So I cannot move forward until that piece is ready. 

While I wait, I will look into purchasing 10 ga wire to re-wire the MSD power wires.

This is the passenger side of the instrument panel

These two metal clips popped off during removal of this panel.  I have applied gorilla glue to these metal clips so that I can re-install this panel

19 March 2017 - Driveability...and stuff

The engine seems to run hotter than I remember.  It doesn't overheat but it does run at 188 on the mechanical gauge and on the electrical factory dash gauge the needle is at the first third of the range.  Also the thermostat is a 180 degree piece.

I decided to drive the car for about 30 minutes today on the highway and back roads.  It did get hot but again it looked like the above description.  After the drive I pulled into the garage and turned off the engine and let it cool for an hour or so.  During that time I picked up a spill-less funnel kit so I could make sure there was no air in the coolant system.  I installed the funnel kit and warmed up the engine and did not see too many bubbles purge, I waited for the thermostat to open and cycle coolant, no real change, still not too many bubbles. So I thought I would stop for now and shut down the engine.  I turned the ignition key off, but the car continued to run, but the gauges/lights/radio turned off.  So I put my foot on the brakes and cycled through the shifter positions to see if that would make it difference and it did not.  Not matter what position the ignition was in, it would not shut off the engine.  I am now looking into what that could be and I am starting with the ignition switch replacement.  I don't have a bezel removal tool so I ordered one and until that arrives I will work on other areas of the car.

Because I have never had a Classic Mercury Cougar continue to run after the ignition switch was turned off, I immediately removed the negative battery cable.  After doing a little research about what I did to shut down the engine, it seems that could have caused problems with the alternator and or the voltage regulator.  I will not know for certain untill I replace the ignition switch and do some power checks.

Anyways here's a list of things to look into the possible cause of the engine continuing to run with the ignition switch off

• replace ignition switch(top priority because just a day ago the car just completely shut down while driving down the highway)
• replace the starter solenoid( it is brand new, maybe 3 months old) $23
• replace voltage regulator( its over 15 years old...I have never replaced it) $28
• replace alternator( its over 15 years old...I have never replaced it) $46

Electronic voltage regulator...$    

18 March 2017 - The Merc

Today I installed the carb.  I installed a remote starter switch, and turned over the engine to prime the carb so starting would be easier.

After doing that, I started the engine and it ran much smoother, the rpms stabilized at 1400.  I let it warm up then adjusted it to 1000.  I adjusted the idle mixture screws and only adjusted a quarter turn more rich.  Decided to go for a test drive.  

The idle was good, the transmission up/down shifted properly.  At 50 mph indicated, rpms were 2200 and rock steady.  I realized after about 15 minutes of driving that there was 1/8 of a tank of gas indicated, so I stopped at a gas station pumped 4 gallons.  At the gas station the car started up properly and the idle was steady. Drove home to let it cool off.

Post drive checks...

• brakes do not appear to be leaking..
• the carb is not leaking anywhere on the outside and the strong smell of gas is now gone 
• only leaks so far is the tranmission tail shaft output seal...
• also the rear axle does leak but its been doing that before all of this work(need to buy fluid and fill)
• 
  

Cleaned up the garage so that it can be swept and mopped tomorrow

Here is a video of the engine at 1500 rpm....after rebuilding the carb

 

17 March 2017 - Driveability

Yesterday the car completely shut down while driving at highways speeds(50-60mph).  It ran with issues at 25-35 mph.  Since it seems like something is shaking loose or moving at higher speeds.  I'll do physical check of wires/hardware under the hood and also in the car.

I bought a replacement ignition switch and a replacement ignition cylinder with key.  I have owned the car for 15 years and have not replaced it, so its probably original and needs to be replaced any ways.

Need to check neutray safety switch and adjust to specs before next test drive.

Also I will rebuild the holley and see if that takes care of the stumble without a load and with a load.


Need to check the wiring, if any that is near the accelerator pedal....  


==========================================================================

Dis-assembled the holley carb, cleaned all of the hardware and replaced all gaskets, seals and float bowl valves.

Noticed one of the main jets was partially blocked.  Cleaned it and re-installed.

That was the only thing that I noticed during the rebuild process.  Oh and the main carb to manifold gasket was fuel soaked...

I will make sure the float levels are correct after install, during the rebuild I did a quick adjustment and made the floats even with the top of the float bowl while it was inverted.

Also the power valve was replaced    

16 March 2017 - Engine timing..carb adjustments...

Adjusted timing to 14 degrees, set idle mixture and set idle speed.   Noticed that after all of that and getting rid of the other vacuum leaks that now the holley is slow to return to idle.  The linkage is good, its just that the engine takes a bit to get back down to idle and it shouldnt.  I have plugged the leaks, I have even removed all vacuum connections and the problem is still there.  The carb did sit in the garage for about a 9 months...so it couldn't hurt to do a rebuild and then re-check it.  


I did take the car for a test drive on the road and had problems at about 50-60 mph...the engine just shut down as if it was electrically turned off.  I pulled over, cycled the transmission through the gears, put it in park and it started right up.  Tried to drive off then it completely shut down again.  So I took a look under the hood and all connections looked and felt secure.  Started the car waited a minute to see if it would die, it didnt then decided to stay off the main highway and drive through neighborhoods to get back home.  I was able to do that just fine.  So I am looking into what type of problem that is....
 

14 March 2017 - PCV valve hose

  ToDo: 15 March 2017

• Make sure to install the fuel tank cap...
• drain a little bit of fluid from the transmission
• mark harmonic balancer
• adjust timing and idle mixture
•  

 

 

 

  ==================================================

Vacuum Leaks

 Continued with tracking down leaks...

The rubber hose that connects the vacuum modulator to the vacuum hard line was very loose.  I put a hose clamp on the end of the rubber hose that connects to the hard line and also a hose clamp on the other end of the hard line that has a rubber hose.  I checked the rubber hose - hard line - rubber hose line and it now holds vacuum!  I installed the rubber hose end to the intake manifold vacuum port and secured with a hose clamp.  That line is now functional and the transmission should shift properly.

I also installed the PVC valve/hose assembly.  Where the two different sizes of hose meet I wrapped the connection with rubberized silicone tape.  This hose assembly is now functional and leak free.

The brake booster did not seem to be working correctly.  With the engine running at idle or at speed, the power booster just did not have enough vacuum.  So I started checking the booster check valve, intake manifold connection and the power booster for leaks.

I checked the function of the check valve and it worked like it should, it is a one way valve and it passed air one way and the other way it held pressure.  So I looked over the booster hose to manifold connection.  The rubber hose to hard line was too loose so I used a better smaller style hose clamp and that properly secured the hose.  The hard line to the intake manifold was working fine, no leaks(this may still be a problem, won't know for sure until the engine is running.  The booster hose assembly is now functional.

To test the booster I used the vacuum tester to draw 18" vacuum and watched it over five minutes with no change so the booster checked good.  

I now have all rubber hoses installed and checked for vacuum leaks.  Now I am going to have to re-check the timing and idle mixture.


 ==========================================================================


The PVC hose fits the PCV valve but it does not fit the carb manifold vacuum port.  That hose size is 3/8".  What I did was make an adapter out of a steel casing for rifle ammo.  The casing size is 7.62x54R.  I cut the spent primer end off.  The bullet end fits the 3/8" size perfectly and the primer end fits the stock PCV hose size. I have rubber "tape" that I can use to wrap up the joint.

13 March 2017 - ToDo

Continuing to work on tracking down vacuum leaks.

The small rubber hose that connects the vacuum modulator to the vacuum hard line appears to be a leak.  The hose does not fitter very well and actually fell off while I was under the car looking at it and trying to adjust it.  So I need to come up with a fix for that.  Also noticed that the manifold vacuum port on the back of the Holley 1850 is too loose.  The hose I had on there seemed like it was snug but it wasn't, the hose moves to easily, so I need to see what kind of fix I can do on that problem.


The pcv valve has a hose that connects the valve to the back of the holley to the manifold vacuum port.  The OEM reproduction hose I ordered does fit the pcv valve but not the port on the carb.

Also I need to check the power booster to make sure it is good.  Here is a check that I can do...connect the vacuum brake bleeder tool to the check valve of the booster, pull 10-15 Hg and see if the booster holds vacuum...then need to push the brake pedal to see how much vacuum is used and to see if the brakes work better than when the engine is running....

12 March 2017 - The Merc - ToDo

• check for vacuume leaks( at transmission, engine intake manifold vacuum ports)

• replace small vacuume hose that connects to vacuume modulator

• adjust engine timing to 10-12 degrees before doing anything else( mark correctly before checking)

• use vacuume gauge to set idle mixture

• re-check transmission fluid level(drain if needed)

• adjust engine idle

12 March 2017 - The Merc - First drive

Today is the first time in over a year since driving the The Merc.  I checked the fluids and drove around the block.  First thing I noticed was the power brakes, the brakes felt very spongy, need to see about bleeding them and check the power booster for possible vacuume leak.  Next thing I noticed was the transmission would bog the engine down and almost shut it down.  Adjusted the idle speed and that helped a bit.  Also noticed that while driving around the block that when slowing down to stop the transmission did not seem to downshift quick enough...there was plenty of vacuume, about 12-14 hg and it does this everytime when slowing down.  The transmission seems to shift fine from a standstill up to speed.

Once everything cools down I will take a look at the car.

One thing I completely ignored was the suspension.  The drive was very smooth and responsive, the car didnt pull left or right on a straight and level road and during braking did not seem to pull one way or the other.

While I am waiting for things to cool down I will install the hood hinges.  I installed the hood springs to the hinges, that was easier than I thought.

Also set the initial timing to 8-12 degrees...I did not mark all the numbers, but I did mark 0 degrees TDC. 

*********************************************************************************************************

I checked the vacuum modulator and its good, it holds vacuume like it should, no leaks.  I think the rubber hose that connects the vacuume modulator to the hard line may be the problem.  It does not fit very tight and moves easily.  Need to check the hard line diameter and buy a vacuum hose that size.

Finished installing the hood hinge assemblies.  Prepped the hood for installation.  Made four studs to mount to the hood to make it easier to install the hood onto the hood hinges.

 

11 March 2017 - The Merc - ToDo

ToDo:

• change oil and filter
• change air filter
• check timing(static and running
• check rocker clearnance of each valve cover(oil breather insert maybe too close to rockers)
•  try to further isolate any vacuum leaks( brake booster, vacuume modulator...)

While installing the air filter assembly, noticed that the lower assemlby did not completely rest on the carb air horn.  The choke lever was in the way...the swivel was up so the lower air filter assembly did not seat correctly....now it does....

Changed the engine oil and filter and pressurized the oil system.

Checked the suspension to make sure everything was properly greased.

Re-routed the spark plug wires...also tried to create custom wires(that did not go well - and wasted alot of time today) 

10 March 2017 - The Merc

Started and ran the engine for about 20-25 minutes to see if adjusting the rockers another 1/4" made a difference.  It sounds and runs like it did before the adjustment so I am going to leave the rockers alone at this point.  I did manage to make a couple of videos of the vacuume gauge while the engine is running...

 This is the engine running at 1000-1100 rpm

 Engine running at about 1500 rpm

 

9 March 2017 - Engine - valve adustments

Made a quick adjustement of the rockers...just backed off the rocker nut 1/4.  Now I need to run the engine to make sure the rockers are working ok.

Still need to do something about the water pump pulley that is too close to the alternator bracket bolt.  Considering removing the water pump pulley, fan and spacer to remove little bit from the the bolt.

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Removed the fan/water pump pulley and spacer to deal with the alternator bolt that is too close to the water pump pulley.

I reviewed some pix I had taken when I was removing the engine back in May 2016 and discovered the error...this time around I put a spacer on the alternator bolt it didn't need.  So I removed it and put everything back together(about an hour or so just do that that task!)

Installed the battery, checked oil/coolant/transmission fluids one more time and fired up The Merc.  It now runs much better after making the rocker adjustments Joe mentioned.  I am now looking into a good procedure(one that I can readily understand) to do a complete valve/rocker adjustement.  I did make a short video of the engine run time.  Let me tell you, that flexlite fan generates some air flow.

Also took a pic of the vacuum gauge with the engine running at 1300 rpm...

Next time I will get a short video of the engine running and show the vacuume gauge... 

The engine electrical temp gauge stayed steady where I am used to seeing it at and the mechanical gauge indicated just over 182 degrees and steady.  The radiator burped a couple of times, so it looks like the coolant fluid is where it needs to be...need to go out and check the heater core in the car...hope that is not leaking...

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This bolt has interference with the water pump pulley...I added a spacer that I did not need...

Here the situation has been resolved!  I should've paid a little more attention to that...

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While I was waiting for the engine/headers to cool down, I started to clean up/prep the hood hinges.  I have the set cleaned and painted with a base coat of semi-gloss black.  I will paint the top coat tomorrow. 

******************************************************************************

Went ahead and adjusted the rockers one last time...went through all rockers and backed off 1/4 turn to see if that will further improve the engine.

Also finished painting(primer coat) the hood hinges and springs.  I will let them dry overnight and paint them tomorrow.

Hood hinges and springs drying on the engine hoist...

 

7 March 2017 - The Merc...Lives!

Today was the day to start The Merc.

After setting up the remote starter switch and making last minute checks, the engine did manage to start and run.  I barely had the engine run for 2 minutes when I shut it off and checked the engine oil and transmission oil.  The tranmission oil was so low it did not register on the stick with the engine off, so I added a quart.  The engine oil, had, guess what, WATER and it seemed like it was ALOT.  So I stopped at this point and did not attempt any more engine run time.  I was very disappointed.  Seeing more water in the oil when I did not see any while I was pressurizing the oil system in preparation of starting the engine kinda upset me.  So at this point I am thinking I still have the original problem.  I passed on this info to a co-worker who is quite the Gear Head.  Once I described the situation he had a few things that I should check, and he also decided to come over to the garage!

After he arrived,  he checked the engine over for coolant leaks at the cylinder heads.  He used a cooling system pressure checker to see what was happening when the engine was off and when it is running.  Since it didnt appear to be obvious leaks, he adjusted the timing by advancing it and that took care of the backfires through the carb and the engine actually ran without stalling.  He recommended using a vacuume gauge and once he saw the gauge he had a few more items to check.  So, tomorrow I will be doing those checks(adjust the valves back a 1/4 turn and check engine run and idle).  He also noticed that the water that was in the oil appeared to burn off, which looks like it was just residual water from the last time it was leaking.  Will check the oil in the morning to see what it looks like after cooling...

Also need to check the transmission fluid with it running to get the level correct.

Another thing that I need to look into is the water pump pulley is rubbing against the alternator bracket bolt and causing a screeching sound periodically.

So it looks like everything is on track now, thanks to Joe.

I need to look into getting a compression checker....